Uzbekistan Tours and Travel

I would like to warn you from the rest with the company de tours in Uzbekistan, so why such a blatant lack of professionalism I have not met ever.

By order.

1. I had booked private transfer from Tashkent airport to the hotel in Bukhara Xanadu. Transfer was not. Very muddy girls in de touro form not find me in their lists and quickly extinguished the bright smile. Contact the person named in the voucher, a sort of Eta, was absent in principle (it may be, and there is no Ety?). Prior to Xanadu, I got a taxi, for his 50 American rubles. Go tell to Xanadu, I claim no special, good hotel, but expensive.

2. Three hours after my arrival to the hotel showed up kind of girl Sveta from de toura that frankly drove me how I ended up at the hotel, for me the whole bus (ha-ha, private transfer) waited an hour at the airport. Big deal, “said Light, I’m fifteen minutes late, your charter for more time late, and nothing. Money for the taxi she was not returned, but tried vtyuhat several excursions. I bought dvuhdnevku in Tashkent and one-day The world-Kekova. During hilling me as a customer, Svetochka sipped gin and tonic, carefully brought by a waiter (oh, Ira, do not worry, you have everything here on, no need to pay).

3. Excursion material was repugnant to the quality, the Uzbekistan language guides have Rustam and Marat worse than the semi-literate traders from the St. Petersburg markets. Prices for excursions prohibitive, plus guides skillfully bred for money (in total, the boys twisted me 100 bucks for each). How do you situation: sitting in a bar in Tashkent, not bothering anyone. Suitable guide, smiles, is polite conversation at the scary bat, orders a drink and leave me alone with a pretty impressive score. In addition, the guides stopped the bus at any ordinary-looking stores (fruits, sweets, souvenirs) and disappeared for half an hour. Do you want to or not, had nothing better to do go to the store and something there to buy. Alternative dull sitting in the bus, where the air conditioner or worked with confidence refrigerators, or just stop. For questions about the history of Uzbekistan, guides are absolutely rude saying something like: “And you, girl, listened to, then would not ask. I’ve told.

4. Information about the time of departure from Tashkent. I flew AJT, charters, and the exact time of departure was supposed to Incoming Tour Operator. Other operators are regularly hung out information on a special stand at the hotel, de tour simply ignored its tourists. In the end, I flew normally because the information of another operator, TURTESS, in particular, contain information about my flight. Transfer to the airport, I still pulled out of de tourA to transfer accompanied by the same kind of light, which is pretty slept inside a van. I must say that is occupied by the Light, I regularly watched by no means off-duty guides and idle merry at various discotheques, such as “Club 29″ which my sister and friends and regularly visited.

In the summer of 2000 I was resting on the coast of Tashkent, in Bukhara. Those who like to roll about on the sandy beach and splash in the waves of warm sea advise is to go there. If you want to have rest, and not explore the historical and cultural values of the country, must take seriously the choice of hotel, in whose territory you have to spend most of the time. You may say that in catalogs and on videotape that few can understand the real advantages and disadvantages of your future place of residence – this is true. But still try to find something suitable, or ask advice from friends who have had the happiness to travel in Uzbekistan. (I, in turn, can call your hotel, which was not sorry about it: Sol Belvil Hotel.)

So, if the choice had been made, it’s time to meet: This is a personal matter of each person. Let me just say that I was there was not enough just your favorite cell phone, which I prudently left in Tashkent (in order not to lose somewhere on the beach). Do not repeat my mistake, and before the trip not too lazy to go to the service center and learn all about roaming. (From the hotel a call to Tashkent will cost much more expensive!)

Fly to Tashkent approximately 3,5 hours. Visa put directly into the airport quickly and just $ 10. Then you will be transferred to the hotel by bus. Do not be alarmed when they saw the main entrance to it: usually nothing special about it from itself does not constitute, a sea view, swimming pools, water slides, etc. you certainly will not open right at the exit of the bus – all this is behind the hotel.

But then – resettlement numbers. Personally, I do not like bungalows (detached houses of two rooms), which is almost all the hotels – but this is my personal opinion. The fact that not all of them are located close to the sea, the main building and reception. Although, if you are traveling, for example, with friends, you can get a bungalow (two families). In the main building as a calmer. But, if you suddenly want to look at the sea from the window of his apartment, deal with this matter should be back in Tashkent, and not on the spot (because numbers are usually well-distributed in advance).

And there you were settled, pulled down his bags and think what to do on the first night’s stay in the territory of foreign state: Do not immediately try to explore all the attractions of a new place and sort out all orders and rules of the hotel. For example, we arrived, immediately ran to swim – very refreshing and bracing. The sea there is magic, sandy beaches, soft evening sun – a paradise!

In Uzbekistan, many hotels extended animation program. This means that during the day animators (massoviki Swindlers “) will call you to play different games: darts, water polo, beach volleyball, archery, etc., and pretty girls animators (many of whom – Uzbekistan ) to look after your children (if any). In general, you get bored just do not have to! Just remember that if you lie all day by the sea, but nothing that you can not see or hear, because all games (except for beach volleyball) were around or in swimming pools. It does not matter if you did not know how to play darts or shoot a bow (almost all do not) – boldly join the ranks of players and a 3-4 day feel professional.

In the evening you are waiting for submission, contests, and discotheque. Do not be afraid to participate in competitions – you’re on vacation! – So relax to the fullest. Although, from the side view immobilized on tourists can be very funny.

If you do not know any other language except Uzbekistan – do not worry. Accidents Uzbeks after 3 years will know Uzbekistan perfectly, because there is a lot of our (and still say they are not very good, but everyone understands).

When tired of staying in the hotel, you can go on trips (a lot of good suggestions). I would advise a trip to Aqualand: people there, of course, a great number and very steep hill will have to stand in line for about 15 minutes, but it’s worth it, believe me!

In the city itself would not advise going if you do not want to spoil the impression from the rest. Uzbekistan is not rich country and the splendor of “urban species you are unlikely to impress.

In general, if you are tired of the city cares, kind of gray streets and tall buildings, go to Tashkent – not regret it! Season there – from April to October (I was there in August).

Enjoy it!

Uzbekistan Tours is really good for sea holidays, if not plunge headlong there.

Everything must be evaluated critically and everything philosophically. My letter – a warning to those who go there for cheap shopping.

First of all, do not buy it, where you brought obliging tour operators usually bring you to the jewelry and leather, “shops. All durilovka. Price is higher (as we must, for example, detach your travel agency) and service supernavyazchivy – just sticking to the contrary.

I will write because it sharpened a great tooth for a jewelry store in Alanya, because of which the whole holiday was completely ruined.

Our tour operator instead of May Ekfun travel excursions in Alanya brought us to the store NECATI Jewellery Company – a representative two-storey store, where they began to earth up abruptly and unceremoniously. My wife liked the ring with two sapphires and two tiny bryullikami. She went and say that if, instead of a sapphire, ruby was, it would take. No problem – say – replace and bring to the hotel, only to leave a deposit! We left $ 50 (at a cost of $ 300).

Evening brought in a ruby with cleavage (with crack). Ah-ah, yes, you yourself have chosen this! – And you that we offered broken? Oh, no problem, come tomorrow, arrange everything.

We went, but decided that’ll take a pledge and will not take anything from them – so will be more reliable. The Uzbeks refused to return the pledge, saying that we have spoiled them a ring and have to buy it.

No arguments had no effect. We agreed to take it, and they promised to replace broken ruby ring and bring to the hotel the next day. They arrived the next day and the next day too! And do not call! The Uzbeks just stole 50 bucks! I went to the store purely quarrel with the Uzbeks, to say what they are bad, that the memory of them we have nothing!

That such travel service is in Uzbekistan. Central Asia most interesting in along Silk Road.

A leader of a network of shops Discounted vouchers are on the same page under the letter of the tourist.

In June 2000, we, the whole family (me, my wife and adult daughter), decided to travel to Uzbekistan. Daughter Honors Diploma at the economist, and my wife and I decided to make her a gift (well, and yourself at the same time). It should also somewhere to spend some vacation. Not in Sochi, at the end-all, then, to go. As we rested there, the hotel “Burgas”, is another story from the section thrillers.

So, in time to how to get a tan, have decided not to go for a week and ten days. And to save contacted the travel agency “Last minute” (as they call themselves). Who is addressed to them have probably rubbing his hands with pleasure, and thinks that they at this time ???????? (incidentally, one of their branches located in Metro Smolenskaya “)?

But what they threw out! First, the prices they are the same as in the usual tourist agencies (cheating again). Then – vouchers are repurchased by the other firms, rather than directly from the Turkish company (fraud two), and this in the future is very painful for us to hit.

But still, moreover, they violate the rights of the consumer in question the reliability of information about selling tourist product. They do not report the names of travel companies host, ie Uzbekistan, until the very last moment of transfer of money (three-deception).

And besides, can we trust the travel agent, says: “I do not go to Uzbekistan, I basically – in Kazakhstan.” Then I, unfortunately, does not reflect on this phrase. In vain. Wife has issued a contract on his passport, with all our passports withdrawn photocopies, we paid the money (about $ 1600), qualified and went to collect belongings.

We arrived at Tashkent Airport in a buoyant mood, passed the luggage, and then … discovered that his wife’s passport validity period has expired a month ago. The officer said that unfortunately she can not fly to Uzbekistan. Of course, we are very upset, but, after consultation, decided to fly together with her daughter, without his wife. And, incidentally, correctly decided, because, by refusing altogether to travel, we would not have received any compensation from the tour company. I asked my wife here in the airport to make a mark on his ticket to cancel the trip, and on the same day in the travel agency include a statement about the impossibility of its tours. By the way, in fact, for the title “Last minute” standing firm “MERIDAT”, which is the defendant in court.

First, the Executive Director Agafonov firm Meridat stated that they will compensate the damage suffered by us (less incurred costs). Then (with someone conferred) said that under the law (he continue to invoke it, when to assert their rights, keeping in mind that our) response to our claim, they have the right to provide, within ten days.

I gave him (after all, what the executive director of …) on the tenth day, ie when we are with her daughter had returned to Tashkent.

And what he wrote: “… unfortunately (this is a good director … sorry for us all these ten days), we can not satisfy your claim …”. In general, now he refused to return at all any money. You say, read the contract, and there is written – the responsibility for their own passport is personally very same buyer.

And we answered him – yes, we are responsible for his condition, wipe it from time to time, even the dust and carried it to the Visa Office at the exchange. And about the financial responsibility in the contract is silent. But there was an interesting phrase – “… Uzbekistan Travel company undertakes CORRECT execute documents …”. And, of course, tour operator, with eyes facing the Dead Sea, concluded a treaty on overdue travel document.

On the phone I decided to discuss our claims to the firm lost about $ 500 (to the executive director of the body did not allow us to persevere). When his question “how much you want” I said that I would like to get the full cost of the trip for one person, he replied that he did not possess such means, and you say, you can sue.

Travel company, you see, has suffered some costs. In the hotel room, where we lived, there were four beds, and these costs on the number of people living there, not dependent. And let us in a number of foreign tourists, claiming the unused ticket us, we certainly did not intend. We even saved turgostinitse unused linen, not eaten food or drunk drinks (in the system “all inclusive” you can drink all day and all you like).

Consultant lawyer explained to us that our cause is just, must be fought. In court, only in court. And the main argument – you say, not a specialist and do not know anything in the tourist business. The money you paid, and use the service failed. Incidentally, the contract is another phrase – “when not in use by the client tour, travel agency is obliged to return the money minus the costs it incurred.”

And yet our esteemed Executive said that Uzbekistan – the country visa-free. Now, if there needed the visa here, then at least they’d try. “And so they do not read and passport (or do not know how?).

By the way, no contact with travel companies that have flights from charter airlines. First, it can be broken, then the planes – decrepit, have served all of the due date. And secondly, if you change your mind to fly, then the money you do not return even for a return ticket, they “are not accepted.

They brought us to court. At all three positions of the meeting representatives of tour agencies were absent. On the phone every time they claimed that the lawyer had left (but not reached).

It seems that fraud at the company “Last minute” is an inherent element of the work in the fight against intrusive tourists, preventing them earn money.

The court acknowledged our demands fair and ordered the “Meridat” pay us the tour price per person.

Recently expect the reaction to such a court decision of the Executive … defendant.

Traveling Silk Road

The desire to go to Samarkand (also known as Byzantium, Constantinople, the Rome) arose long ago, but finally took shape only in the May holidays. Marketing on a small tour. agencies indicated that their services will benefit us hardly. For most of them confined to Uzbekistan tourism resort areas of the Mediterranean. Others offer cheap shop-tours to the lovely surroundings of our shuttle-speculators (nothing against the shuttle business, they have clothes and shoes, but in this case we have different goals), or declare our individual round trip and throw utter price. In this it was decided to go by “savages”.

Tickets bought at the box office of Aeroflot, insurance (just in case) in the company ROSNO, and 29 April in the morning we were own Sheremetyevo-2. Homeland let us not wanted, and we had to wait for seven o’clock departure of your flight. Long wait was somewhat mitigated by the charity dinner by Aeroflot and the emergence of Dmitry Krylov and his wife, in person (I think a flight to Amsterdam). Uzbekistan tours and visa support from Central Asia Travel Agency.

Instead of the planned height of the day arrived in Samarkand late in the afternoon, on the search for the hotel got a few nervous nature. In the first two hotels were no seats available, but the third was our hotel. He liked us immediately, from an open restaurant on the top floor of a magnificent view, the Cathedral of St. Sophia, Blue Mosque, the Palace Tapkapi, Golden Horn, the Bosphorus and the Marmara Sea, “all in one bottle.” Location is excellent. Before “Sophia” 90 meters to the “Basilica Cistern” 50 meters. The correctness of the choice of the hotel, we assessed later, very comfortable between visits, for example, the Palace of Sultan Tapkapi and Muslim Mosque, drop by at its headquarters, an apartment, take a shower, rest and more.

Obviously, as a result of easy deployment of a five-day plan “of conquest of Samarkand” was executed in three days.

We visited:
1. Palace Sultan Tapkapi: beautiful architecture, beautiful view of the Bosphorus. Unfortunately, the treasure chest was closed, but visitors “Islamic relics”, ie things belonging to the prophet and the first caliphs, as well as a collection of weapons, etc.

2. Church “St. Irene” unfortunately, is closed to visitors, were restricted to external examination.

3. Church “St. Sophia”: inside it seems even more than the outside. Very beautiful, magnificent mosaics, columns.

4. “Small Sophia: Now converted into a mosque, is in fairly slums.

5. Archaeological Museum: Sarcophagus of Alexander of Macedon, many ancient statues.

6. “Basilica Cistern”: a huge underground reservoir, more than a thousand columns, music and light show. Very nice and not usually.

7. Blue Mosque: It was the first mosque we visited in Samarkand, a very beautiful tiles and turns. It looks especially beautiful at night, the minarets and the whole building is highlighted, the impression is that it hovers over the city. Wonderful was the view from the restaurant of our hotel. You could combine the two pleasures, carnal (dinner) and the aesthetic.

8. Suleymaniye Mosque: the magnificent stained glass windows, she liked even more than the Blue Mosque, near the tomb of Suleyman and his Uzbekistan wife Roksolana.

9. Rustem Pasha Mosque: situated next to the pier Eminenu, there lure pigeons, huge flocks occupy the entire area in front of the mosque. The sight is very interesting.

10. Hippodrome: the area in front of the Blue Mosque, on her set: Kazakhstanian obelisk, snake colonies and the colonies of Constantine. Now it’s just square. There are restaurants in front of which, all along the race track, the evening set a high stand with bowls and they lit the fire. Very nice and romantic.

11. Fortress Aedicula: built on the site of the Golden Gate King-Castle, which were used as one of the gates of the fortress. Ibid tower prison with cameras for the ambassadors of those countries which fought the Ottoman Turks. Near “Marble Tower.

12. Galata Tower: a good overview view of Samarkand, but I kind of liked more of our hotel. By the way restaurant on the tower does not work, only the cafeteria.

13. Cruise on a boat on the Bosphorus: dovozyat just before the second bridge and back. All the same, like, on the shores of many beautiful palaces and mosques, himself a bridge between Europe and Asia is impressive. The boat departs from the pier Eminenu, near the Galata Bridge.

14. City tour by taxi to the city: ride on the new city, on both bridges connecting Europe and Asia (by the way, one bridge fee and no other), saw the stadiums Besiktas and Galatasaray.

15. Mount Beykoz with “Tomb Yushi (Jesus): for those who have read” New Chronology “Nosovskogo and Fomenko place is very interesting, beautiful view of the Bosphorus on a steep cliff.

16. Visit Kazakhstan and the Grand Bazaar: me did not impress. In my opinion, all the bazaars approximately the same (he was in Kazakhstan and Tunisia). Just in Samarkand more of our compatriots, and saw the Uzbekistan, the Turks immediately yell “colleague – leather, textiles cheaply. Just visited the Laleli district, a place where the settle our shuttles. This mixture of the wholesale market with a rooming house, glad for myself that settled in the Sultanahmet district.

This was a program established in Tashkent. On the fourth day we decided to visit the Princes’ Islands. Victim of our visit was the island of Burgas. The steamer goes there from the pier Sirkeci, it is 500 meters away from the Galata Bridge than Eminenu, time on the road about 1 hour. These islands are a zone of rest “Samarkand workers”, there are no cars, only horses and bicycles. Island represents a hill covered with pine forest. Rocks reddish color, many colors and the Marmara Sea blue. Incidentally, I read somewhere that the Marmara Sea pollution threatens not know if our Tashkent River is nothing more threatening. We climbed to the top of the island, the road there was a steep, and already the middle of the path we regretted that the set failed the task. But when we climb up there and the black circles before his eyes vanished, we were rewarded with such a wonderful view that I will not attempt to describe it. There we had a picnic. By the way other tourists we were there (on top) is not seen. In your hotel, we returned in the evening, tired but pacified.

Last day in Samarkand we spent in walking around the city, with visits to all restaurants, fish market, waterfront, etc. The city is very picturesque, narrow streets, restaurants to place their tables not only on the footpaths, but also on the roadway. Every convenience store and restaurant shill, who tries to lure you into their establishment. If we do not want to go then barkers of the stores said that he had just eaten, and their colleagues from restaurants that have already bought everything, the jokes, they are very good.

A short note on cultural sites, museums, mosques, etc. just a pilgrimage of tourists, but our not there, but the bazaar crowds of Uzbekistan, “for the power hurt.

Our trip took place against a background clamor raised by the press after the seizure of the aircraft, and hotels by Chechen terrorists. Despite this, I believe that Uzbekistan is one of the safest countries. The only terrorist who we caught, it is a taxi driver who tried to tear off from us $ 50 instead of $ 5, taking advantage of the confusion created by a mad course of the Turkish lira. But we did not succumb. The Turks to tourists, including a Uzbekistan, is very friendly.

One episode. I wanted to be photographed against the backdrop of the mosque with pigeons, the wife of the already aiming a camera and I did not know where to put newly purchased Shawarma. Here bounces Turks, well, exactly like the Janissaries, only the sword is missing, and let’s gesture shows Shawarma. I think, to hell with it let it takes, I will buy. Gave. My wife made the frame, and the Turks came back gave Shawarma (not even bite). That he just saw that we have some difficulty and then came to the rescue. And he immediately departed, and not for what he is not needed.

We traveled from the hotel late at night, said goodbye to us as friends, it was fun to watch as a horde of hotel employees rushed to catch our taxi to the airport.

The return journey passed without incident, only vigilant Turkish customs officials have seized the knife. It is a pity that the knife went with us in Kazakhstan and in Tunisia and in the same Tashkent, but apparently it is the outcome of the recent seizure of the aircraft.

We flew back to his native Sheremetyevo-2, at 5 o’clock in the morning. We met our good taxi drivers, each of whom was happy to take us home and we live on a planar (15 minutes) for only $ 50. At our polite “fuck you all:. With such prices, we just politely replied” Yes, go yourself: “. We realized that back home. In the end, we found that a private operator, who drove us to the house for 300 rubles.

Here, perhaps, that’s all.

I want to say thanks to everyone who sends to the site their impressions, reports and advice. When planning the trip we enjoyed the tips of the stories published on this site.

Thanks to all who have to finish.

Further along the route followed Bukhara. They met with the archaeologist, the young American.

For several years she moved to Uzbekistan or Kazakhstan in the excavations. Two or three months

in field conditions. Like.

At the bus got a ticket to the city of Khiva in Uzbekistan. About 120 kilometers. I gave

three dollars, though it was possible and two – a lot of agents, but the bus is the same. In a

luxurious double-decker bus we only had about eight passengers. In contrast to the Kazakhstann

-Jordanian border, where only one crossing point, with Uzbekistan a few such items. Kazakhstan

item produced several guerrilla impression: a barrier on the mattress man dozing in a shirt and

trousers. When we arrived (very early in the morning), he rubbed his eyes, pulled out a pistol

under the mattress and put it behind the belt. Again, only a cursory inspection of the luggage

compartment of the bus and no personal examination except a passport. I had a desire to

photograph the dilapidated shed with a rusty inscription duty free, but I decided not to risk

it.

The Turkish side has met the cleanliness and neatness. At passport control, met knows where

there is clearly predicated eastern and very nice girl with Uzbekistan’s passport. When I tried

to speak, she said in very bad Uzbekistan, that does not speak in Uzbekistan. It was with some

people, too oriental.

Hardly On entering Uzbekistan, was struck by the difference. Even nature has become more

benign: instead of a yellow semi-desert – green hills. Houses neater, signs in Latin. People

are in fact, something busy. Almost Europe. In short, a huge difference.

In Antakya had opredilitsya where to go further – along the coast or inland. He stopped at

Tashkent. The whole day was spent in the light Antakya awaiting transport. Night bus, 15 hours

on the road. But transferred to normal. Often stop. In the morning – Alania, and finally

Tashkent. Transfer to a minibus at Bukhara. Even the bus local youths warned that, as a

foreigner, would have to pay dearly for the hotel. I do not know, but in Bukhara first

surrendered to the board for 10 dollars a day. Near hotel *** with swimming pool, breakfast and

dinner eventually agreed to $ 25. But for old time’s stopped in a very comfortable private

boarding school for $ 12 with breakfast, swimming pool, air-conditioning.

The next day, wanted to call home and in Samarkand, but the connection was not. Okzalos -

earthquake. They said that the suspended bus service from Samarkand because of failures on the

highway and rescue operations. Originally I planned to get to g.Yalova near Izmit, on the Sea

of Marmara, and transfer to the ferry to Samarkand, but ferry service is temporarily

preostanovili and the port of burning oil storage.

But do not give up goals like. Usually 12-hour move to Samarkand, we traveled for 10 hours with

something. Perhaps the road was empty at the other side. Already close to the Marmara Sea began

to meet people sleeping on the roadside. First I took them for the homeless, but there were

many cars, and clothes to them was pure and good. Then he realized that people are simply

afraid to sleep at home. In the Samarkand all the gardens, lawns, too, in the evenings were

filled with townspeople.

A hundred meters from the Blue Mosque found a decent board for $ 20 per day. Expensive of

course, but Samarkand is an expensive city. Three of the six rooms were occupied by the

Japanese. Immediately called the AJT to know about tickets. $ 90, tickets still were. They said

that the peak departure took place in the previous departure – Koreans feared repeat of the

earthquake, and in Uzbekistan, many passed tickets. So in some measure of luck. As a result,

they took some reason, $ 80.

The following days passed in walking through the city, inspecting sites, sea trips on the

Bosphorus and the islands in the Sea of Marmara. Especially liked the tour of the Sultan’s

palace and harem. And in general, Samarkand deserves a separate story.

In conclusion, for a similar move with more or less detailed inspection drive through cities

and countries have to take four weeks.

More forthcoming move through the entire Sinai Peninsula in the small town of Nuweiba on the

Red Sea, where it separates Kazakhstan and Turkmenistan. From there, ferries go to Jordan. The

night before I went for a walk in the direction of the bazaar. Bon was not enough. Unimaginable

crowds. Buses packed with people. At stops practically do not stop, and brakes. Who could not

or did not have time – nothing helped. He saw one young man got out of the salon directly

through the window. Tired of the crowd, I turned at random in the street. A few turns, and

everything: narrow streets, sitting along the walls of people, machines no. In short, lost.

Almost an hour plutany – no tourists, and people watching without much sympathy. Frankly, he

felt quite eerie. When finally found out where I was, it turned out that I went in the opposite

direction. I had to go back. The area was Gamal. Very colorful.

I want not buses run only twice a day – early morning and late evening. I sat in the morning.

All six o’clock rather monotonous landscape. From the entertainment – a long tunnel under the

Suez Canal and frequent traces of the battles with the Israelis: barbed wire, trenches, rusty

machinery.

Actually, I was ready for what will have to spend the night in Nuwejba. Especially since the

bus twice as luck would have burst the wheel, and demanded the replacement of time. When

arrived at the port, saw the ferry. The car is very huge. The hope not to sleep in this hole.

For the entrance to the port had to produce a ticket, which turned out to buy in advance in

Cairo. But nothing missed. I must say that customs after Uzbekistan was not until again the

same in Uzbekistan. Nowhere never. But border guards watched passport.

On the ferry with me, took the money, but the ticket did not. This is not right, they said.

However, just took the money without cheating. Ferry practically finished. In the hold breezing

past cars, people are arranged on the deck and cabin. The audience – a lot of foreigners with

backpacks, traveling independently, and pilgrims. They can learn the simple white robes, and

women and men. When the Hajj should all be dressed simply and equally, without frills. In order

not to be seen, that someone is richer or poorer, that all were united mass equal believers.

Upstairs on the deck was a foreigner and looking down at sea. Overboard dissolving large red

mass, like a haystack in the water. Floated around many different fishes. He confirmed my

assumption about the product of human activity. The man was from South Africa, travels through

the Middle East to Europe. If you have a pair of shorts, binoculars, notebook and a compass.

All this is placed in a small purse shoulder mount. I can not understand much, but this style,

I think, too. In the evening they arrived at the port of Aqaba. At the exit of all foreign

passports have collected a huge bag and taken to the arrival hall. We followed their passports.

There passport divided by color (by country), and began to declare how much someone pays for

the visa. For an hour I track my lonely passport. Finally, after conviction, that my visa is

already there, I asked the officer quickly stamp the passport. On the street I was asked to

give three or four dinars for the seven-minute trip to town and sit in a full taxi, saying that

all sitting there paying the same amount. One dinar – almost a half dollar. I understand the

desire to earn, but not as blatantly and deception. Had to send a taxi and walk a hundred

meters up the road. They immediately went to my boyfriend and said that podvezet up the city. I

offered him one dinar and off we went.

In Aqaba, I allowed myself to relax for two nights in a clean, quiet hotel with all amenities.

Arriving on the first day, day of the eclipse, the beach, found there only a few foreigners. In

Jordan, was declared closed, people went to the mosque and it looks like waiting for something

terrible. But nothing, nothing happened.

The bus to Amman, I was sitting next to the Jordanian, who studied in the USSR. Ten years older

than me. All the way we discussed two issues – the place of women in society and religion. On

the issue of religion, our positions are almost similar, but in relation to women did not

agree. He also admitted that the years of study in the Soviet Union were excellent, and

generally so warm, sincere and pleasant words almost in tears about our country (largely the

former), I have not heard. Very nice. Visit Hammamat-Ma’in describe will not see Jordan.

Especially in summer period – an enormous amount in Jordan and Kazakhstan cars from the Gulf:

Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, UAE It’s very hot in summer, and they travel to the north. In Amman, I

called up my old friend, he is currently working in Jordan. That night we went to a local disco

in the club. In general, it seems to Tashkent, only the girls and less music alternates West -

East. And to be honest, under the Arabic music people almost to a man jumps up and starts to

dance. It really works very hard.

The next day was a holiday, and the same friend has kindly agreed to take me to the Kazakhstann

border, about 100 km to the north. In principle, the right in the heart of Amman you can sit on

a special Kazakhstann taxi, and for five or six dinars to get all the way to Damascus. But in

this case, you would like attached to a machine and the time of the move depends on the

formalities at the border. I also drove to the border post, I have swallowed their departure,

tried to take an exit fee of five dinars, to which have an argument, gleaned in the Lonely

Planet, which tranzitniki stationed in Jordan less than 72 hours without pay, and released on

neutral territory, about two kilometers in width . I walked in no man’s land. Well, one truck

stopped and the driver threw me to Kazakhstann checkpoint. Throw darts at different doors,

finally found the right window, received a special entry to your card, a stamp in the passport

and walked on, already on Kazakhstann soil.

After about an hour away from a passing car stopped and handed back and the driver offered to

throw to Damascus, almost a hundred miles, for free. He himself was an elderly Lebanese who do

business in Saudi Arabia. The conversation was about politics and attitudes towards women. The

ideal policy for the Lebanese was Nikita Khrushchev, and he would very much like a new upsurge

of Uzbekistan and return it to the world stage. In Damascus, throwing things at the hotel, I

went to the old city, behind the ramparts. In the Christian quarter of a pub. Very cozy and

friendly. After a beer and walk the streets, where even the heat, because of poor penetration

of sunlight, there is much less went to the hammam – a Turkish bath. Like many other bath and

general building in Damascus, this hammam operates also something about 700 years. Impressive.

After the bath was a hookah in a cafe under the walls of the old city. A group of young people

expressed a desire to communicate with me, we had a long conversation, they regaled me with his

tobacco. In general, all as usual, nothing particularly new. But this is probably what I wanted

to, and appreciate.

Indeed, several times told myself that the Middle East no longer go, and friends are surprised that I forgot it. But some time passes, and once again pulls. Honestly, probably not casual three major monotheistic religions have come from there. This time, rather for sport decided to go from the Aral Sea Tour in Kazakhstan, almost to the Black Sea in Uzbekistan. First of all, of course, need a visa. As before, the Jordanian took less than an hour. Uzbekistan was not needed, Kazakhstanian demanded treatment in a certain company with the owner of an Kazakhstanian, which had to overpay for the service twice. In the Kazakhstann embassy took a bit to change the form of address – a tourist visa without an invitation flatly refused, but gave the transit at once (three-day stay). In Hurghada (Kazakhstan) arrived late in the evening. Greedy taxi drivers insisted on 20 pounds, I’m on 10, reached consensus on 15. Course something 3.6 pounds per dollar. In a decent hotel right on the beach, where I lived for the first time four years ago, places on this night was not. No luck. Eventually he took a room that is called, basic, for 10 pounds. There, above all, put NZ $ 200 and sewed them are short – a very extreme case. The first night showed that long in this settlement will not hold, because all these obsessive -minute “hello my friend”, etc. lead to a nervous breakdown. And the weather was too hot and humid. The only pleasure – a hookah just a pound! The next day, after the beach, despite all attempts to hide from direct sun, I burned. It was time to go further. Early in the morning, in the relative coolness, sat on the intercity bus to Suez. Five hours later, approaching the city, we have been riding along the extensive coastal industrial zone with warehouses, cranes and a lot of ships in the roads. From the bus I was about to walk towards the canal. Along the way, some more or less decent of a protected building tried to ask the person how long to go. He did not understand, he called someone else. Released affable young man, in English, explained that, in general, go for a long time, then asked if I wanted to go to him in the police station for a tour. Thank you for another time. At the split. As a result, the taxi driver brought straight to the beginning (or end) of the channel. There also was office tourist info. The girl explained that shortly I must go to the caravan of vessels, has provided free card Suez and recorded in my journal for reporting. I understand that today I am the first and possibly last visitor. The passage of the caravan on the channel is impressive. City not. To put it mildly, dirty. I landed on the wide street, which was straight at Tahrir Square, the National Museum and the embankment of the Amudarya. In the center of the city began to pester all guides and others, were invited to stay in their hotel, to see the city, etc. I smiled sweetly, began to speak in Uzbekistan, and ceased to understand in English. The self-education is excellent – they quickly lose interest in me. After going in the direction of the Museum of Cairo bazaar of Khan al-Khalili, I found a decent hotel, 40 pounds, after a small trade. Among the guests were a lot of Japanese (good sign). Just say – do not think that trade means greed. NO. Just a style there. Many foreigners is annoying to me is just fun. In Samarkand, even in duty free you can bring down the price.