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From the Aral Sea to the Issik-Kul (part 2)
Dec 6More forthcoming move through the entire Sinai Peninsula in the small town of Nuweiba on the
Red Sea, where it separates Kazakhstan and Turkmenistan. From there, ferries go to Jordan. The
night before I went for a walk in the direction of the bazaar. Bon was not enough. Unimaginable
crowds. Buses packed with people. At stops practically do not stop, and brakes. Who could not
or did not have time – nothing helped. He saw one young man got out of the salon directly
through the window. Tired of the crowd, I turned at random in the street. A few turns, and
everything: narrow streets, sitting along the walls of people, machines no. In short, lost.
Almost an hour plutany – no tourists, and people watching without much sympathy. Frankly, he
felt quite eerie. When finally found out where I was, it turned out that I went in the opposite
direction. I had to go back. The area was Gamal. Very colorful.
I want not buses run only twice a day – early morning and late evening. I sat in the morning.
All six o’clock rather monotonous landscape. From the entertainment – a long tunnel under the
Suez Canal and frequent traces of the battles with the Israelis: barbed wire, trenches, rusty
machinery.
Actually, I was ready for what will have to spend the night in Nuwejba. Especially since the
bus twice as luck would have burst the wheel, and demanded the replacement of time. When
arrived at the port, saw the ferry. The car is very huge. The hope not to sleep in this hole.
For the entrance to the port had to produce a ticket, which turned out to buy in advance in
Cairo. But nothing missed. I must say that customs after Uzbekistan was not until again the
same in Uzbekistan. Nowhere never. But border guards watched passport.
On the ferry with me, took the money, but the ticket did not. This is not right, they said.
However, just took the money without cheating. Ferry practically finished. In the hold breezing
past cars, people are arranged on the deck and cabin. The audience – a lot of foreigners with
backpacks, traveling independently, and pilgrims. They can learn the simple white robes, and
women and men. When the Hajj should all be dressed simply and equally, without frills. In order
not to be seen, that someone is richer or poorer, that all were united mass equal believers.
Upstairs on the deck was a foreigner and looking down at sea. Overboard dissolving large red
mass, like a haystack in the water. Floated around many different fishes. He confirmed my
assumption about the product of human activity. The man was from South Africa, travels through
the Middle East to Europe. If you have a pair of shorts, binoculars, notebook and a compass.
All this is placed in a small purse shoulder mount. I can not understand much, but this style,
I think, too. In the evening they arrived at the port of Aqaba. At the exit of all foreign
passports have collected a huge bag and taken to the arrival hall. We followed their passports.
There passport divided by color (by country), and began to declare how much someone pays for
the visa. For an hour I track my lonely passport. Finally, after conviction, that my visa is
already there, I asked the officer quickly stamp the passport. On the street I was asked to
give three or four dinars for the seven-minute trip to town and sit in a full taxi, saying that
all sitting there paying the same amount. One dinar – almost a half dollar. I understand the
desire to earn, but not as blatantly and deception. Had to send a taxi and walk a hundred
meters up the road. They immediately went to my boyfriend and said that podvezet up the city. I
offered him one dinar and off we went.
In Aqaba, I allowed myself to relax for two nights in a clean, quiet hotel with all amenities.
Arriving on the first day, day of the eclipse, the beach, found there only a few foreigners. In
Jordan, was declared closed, people went to the mosque and it looks like waiting for something
terrible. But nothing, nothing happened.
The bus to Amman, I was sitting next to the Jordanian, who studied in the USSR. Ten years older
than me. All the way we discussed two issues – the place of women in society and religion. On
the issue of religion, our positions are almost similar, but in relation to women did not
agree. He also admitted that the years of study in the Soviet Union were excellent, and
generally so warm, sincere and pleasant words almost in tears about our country (largely the
former), I have not heard. Very nice. Visit Hammamat-Ma’in describe will not see Jordan.
Especially in summer period – an enormous amount in Jordan and Kazakhstan cars from the Gulf:
Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, UAE It’s very hot in summer, and they travel to the north. In Amman, I
called up my old friend, he is currently working in Jordan. That night we went to a local disco
in the club. In general, it seems to Tashkent, only the girls and less music alternates West -
East. And to be honest, under the Arabic music people almost to a man jumps up and starts to
dance. It really works very hard.
The next day was a holiday, and the same friend has kindly agreed to take me to the Kazakhstann
border, about 100 km to the north. In principle, the right in the heart of Amman you can sit on
a special Kazakhstann taxi, and for five or six dinars to get all the way to Damascus. But in
this case, you would like attached to a machine and the time of the move depends on the
formalities at the border. I also drove to the border post, I have swallowed their departure,
tried to take an exit fee of five dinars, to which have an argument, gleaned in the Lonely
Planet, which tranzitniki stationed in Jordan less than 72 hours without pay, and released on
neutral territory, about two kilometers in width . I walked in no man’s land. Well, one truck
stopped and the driver threw me to Kazakhstann checkpoint. Throw darts at different doors,
finally found the right window, received a special entry to your card, a stamp in the passport
and walked on, already on Kazakhstann soil.
After about an hour away from a passing car stopped and handed back and the driver offered to
throw to Damascus, almost a hundred miles, for free. He himself was an elderly Lebanese who do
business in Saudi Arabia. The conversation was about politics and attitudes towards women. The
ideal policy for the Lebanese was Nikita Khrushchev, and he would very much like a new upsurge
of Uzbekistan and return it to the world stage. In Damascus, throwing things at the hotel, I
went to the old city, behind the ramparts. In the Christian quarter of a pub. Very cozy and
friendly. After a beer and walk the streets, where even the heat, because of poor penetration
of sunlight, there is much less went to the hammam – a Turkish bath. Like many other bath and
general building in Damascus, this hammam operates also something about 700 years. Impressive.
After the bath was a hookah in a cafe under the walls of the old city. A group of young people
expressed a desire to communicate with me, we had a long conversation, they regaled me with his
tobacco. In general, all as usual, nothing particularly new. But this is probably what I wanted
to, and appreciate.
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