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My Travel in Central Asia. Uzbekistan Travel Gems
Filed under Bukhara, Central Asia Travel, Khiva, Samarkand, Tashkent, Uzbekistan Hotels, Uzbekistan Tour, Uzbekistan TravelNov 21
At this time, the decision on a vacation was given at once and without controversy. It has long wanted to travel in Central Asia, ever since the 80-ies of the last century, but somehow do not stack. I climbed to the Internet to watch reviews, and almost immediately ran into coordinate Roxana Tour offering, beautiful routes in the country. Without thinking, I wrote their wishes for the trip and received a reply with a detailed description of our future route, which my family accepted with enthusiasm. We had to drive almost the entire central Uzbekistan from Samarkand to Khiva, and we began to gather.2-3 September – beginning of the journey. As always, it all starts with the airport and airplanes.
Even on “good” tradition, our flight was delayed for 3 hours, check-in and boarding were also fun – people pulling out of Moscow’s huge baggage, as it all fit in the plane for us to remain a mystery. From aircraft impressions – sunrise above the clouds – always a beautiful sight, but also opened up views of the desert, distant mountains, and just before landing in Samarkand beautiful blue lake with the rugged coast.
Entry to the ground in Uzbekistan was marked by measuring the temperature of all arrivals and rather dreary procedure of customs clearance. Travel guide himself unable to meet us, and therefore met Rahmat, he took the weary travelers to the hotel. A small family hotel “emir”, located in the heart of the city, immediately charmed us by their friendly hosts, cozy, patio, micro-garden in which grow the grapes, quince, apple trees and flowers. We feel at home and went to reside. Before the meeting with Travel guide still had time, had breakfast, and still want to nap. And we Masha ran the immediate vicinity.
By the appointed hour arrived, Travel guide, quite the same as in the photograph, we met and went to try Samarkand pilaf. In the warm company of Travel guide and Rahmat learned that the pilaf in Samarkand is necessarily yellow carrots, beef, and almost no spices, rice and meat are not mixed. They learned to drink green tea “with respect” and tried soup in Uzbek – on kefir.
Fortified, we went on tour. Travel guide was wonderful and very interesting story-teller. On this day we visited, Afrosiab tomb of the prophet Daniel, an observatory Ulugbek street Shakhi Zinda mausoleums and Bibi Khanum Mosque. In the stories of Rustam, as it came alive and flew before his eyes a century, the era of the kingdom: – an ancient mound, on which more than 3000 years ago, was born in Samarkand, then conquered by Alexander the Great, and then become the intersection of trade routes prosperous city, then conquered by the Arabs who brought former Zoroastrians – the inhabitants of ancient Samarkand, Islam, and finally ruined by hordes of Genghis Khan. The revival of the city began when Timur (Tamerlane), he and his descendants built the main architectural monuments. It Timur brought from Mecca, the power of Daniel, the burial place of the present horse Timur stopped here scored source, and built a mausoleum near Hodge Danier (Daniel in the east). Tomb unusually long, it is believed that power is constantly growing in one version, on the other – the prophet was a giant. The place is considered holy, come here to pray.
Grandson of Tamerlane Ulugbek was a great astronomer. Ancient Observatory struck by its size and level of academic knowledge and scientific discoveries of the time. By the way, celestial map, compiled Ulugbek and saved his best pupil, used until the second half of the twentieth century, when telescopes were invented …
Street Shakhi Zinda mausoleums – all separate miracle. Touch to eternity … quiet, solemn, beautiful. It is better to see it – for one splendor opens next great building, we took pictures like crazy, I wanted to carry as many prints of this beauty.
The more we learn the history and culture, the greater fall in love for us in a new country – Uzbekistan. A Travel guide fascinated us all the new stories about saints, miracles of Sufi dervishes, legends of the ancient masters. It was almost dark when finished our first acquaintance with Samarkand. Dining in a small cozy restaurant, we never tired of admiring! Masha decided to write all heard in the diary. I must say that the impressions of the first day she described in the next three J.
We returned to complete darkness, before going to sleep admired the Gur Emir, as if hovering in the black sky and immediately dropped down to sleep – very tired.
September 4. Fairy tale continues. After breakfast, meet with a magician Travel guide and try to meet the new impressions. Start a fairy tale – he Timur – Europeans have dubbed it an insulting nickname Tamerlane, which means iron hromets. At the very beginning of their campaigns, he was seriously wounded and has since limped. He was born in Shahrisabz whole life led military campaigns, created a vast empire that stretched from the Black Sea almost to China, and died of cold in the last expedition to China. We visited the Gur-Emir mausoleum, where he was buried, and discussed with Rustam many mysterious phenomena associated with the opening of the tomb of Timur in June 1941. Things got even more mysterious … But I like to believe in the legend, that would not say scientists are materialists. The mausoleum is a beautiful and majestic, he began to build her favorite grandson of Timur, whom he regarded as his successor, built as a madrasa, but suddenly died young, so madrasas, and turned into a splendid mausoleum of the Timurid.
Then we came to the Registan Square – the business card of Samarkand. The ensemble consists of three Madrassah: Medressa, Sher-Dor (madrassas with tigers), Madrasah Tell Cory (golden madrassas). Madrasah – Muslim educational institutions, such an abundance of educational institutions corresponds to the sayings of the Koran – every Muslim must learn and improve their knowledge. Many wise words from the Koran written in Arabic script on the walls of the cells of the students, called hujra. According to Rustam, many utterances, even encrypted in ornaments … Older Registan Square was a huge market, but now there were only shops with souvenirs. There we met with the national Uzbek embroideries – Suzane – each girl to prepare the dowry, embroidering patterns on the tablecloth, wall carpets, napkins. In the patterns, too, could read the different stories, like fairy tales One Thousand and One Nights, passing one another. In shops tout demonstrate products, happy to answer your questions and offer to be photographed in their national costumes, skullcaps, the veil. We absorb new experiences, like a sponge, the stories of Travel guide very interesting and instructive, full of enthusiasm.
Lunching at a small cafe near the market, we continue the introduction to Samarkand. At this time we go to the Russian quarter. In the 19 century came here as Russian, so as not to give Central Asia the British, with the intention of profiting some local resources. In this part of town we saw how friendly the local people – On the same street are a Christian church, the German church, the Armenian church. Travel guide tells us about different Russian vassals, far and wise, archaeologist and historian, who came from Russia, fell in love with this place and stay here. About winemaking and collector of vines and wines Filatova, organized The local winery, wine which has successfully competed at international exhibitions. Winery conducts tastings of their products for those who wish, and we could not pass. About the wines told the chief engineer of the plant – a person who is fanatically devoted to the cause, that’s why his story was colorful and interesting. Naprobovavshis, become acquainted with our new friend – a good-natured giant Vitalik uncle, with whom we have to go tomorrow to the mountains for a walk. With jokes and jokes are going to Samarkand look at the workshop for production paper and try your hand at sculpting bowls on a potter’s wheel. We are all happy, eyes burning, everywhere interesting and entertaining. Paper made from the bark of the mulberry tree and we show successively the whole process. Then give practice with clay. Unfortunately, nothing outstanding, we did not work … But we are not upset, we learn, Maybe next time something to carve. Incidentally, observe rural life around: the boys ride on the donkey riverside Zeravshan fish, ducks fuss, Rabbits graze in the yard, spinning wheel, to feed water into the house, all painted in pink hues of the setting sun. Cool. Home forgiven us, lined up the entire company, and waving their hands for a long time – come back again. We return to the city, Travel guide shows us the restaurant, where you can dine BBQ. We enjoy the wonders of Samarkand culinary arts and obevshiesya back to the hotel again, admiring the Gur Emir in the moonlight.
September 5. Today acquainted with the surroundings of Samarkand, go to the mountain place-first in Urgut, then in Agalyk. Accompany us today Sasha and uncle Acne. On the way, considering that it grows in gardens and fields. In the fields of large plantations of tobacco, it turns out, here he is in excellent health and is of excellent quality raw materials for tobacco production. Also, we pass many orchards – mostly apple, quince and peach. Huge plantations of grapes, we were surprised that such an undersized grapes – literally spread along the ground, but if you raise the rod – you will find a large bunch excellent raisins. On the road there are buckets, straight from the plantations harvested grapes are sold.
Arriving in Urgut, the first time we get into a little stopper on the road. Uncle Acne and Sasha explains that there is a big market, but since today is Saturday, then the people here completely. In this market, considered one of the largest in Uzbekistan ever since Soviet Union, coming even from neighboring Tajikistan, whose boundary passes here in the mountains nearby. Traveled almost the entire city, fall into the ancient sycamores, in the depth of which is the mosque and the holy spring. Grove amazes us with its enormous shady trees, the age by up to 1000 years old! It would be interesting porassprosit these plane trees that they had seen in his lifetime? How many stories they can tell … this is a holy place, there lived one of the most revered Sufi teachers and, as Rustam said, there’s even a special way to pray, and during the prayer place all kinds of miracles. We wandered about, went to a sacred source, fed the fish-Marinka, who lives in this cool and very transparent lakes and admire the surrounding mountains and piled into a small room, arranged in the hollow of the oldest tree – a real cave of Ali Baba and 40 thieves, only no treasure. They say that there can be crowded, but do not take offense to place 40 people. Pretty impressed by these beauties, we went on. On the way visited the camp, whose director has been more than 30 years, Vladimir Stepanovich Velikanov, who brought in these places many different plants and make a real botanical garden. Of course, I could not resist, and Sasha was persuaded to pass on to the camp fence, painfully beautiful in the mountains, I want to go farther and higher, gnawing nostalgia for mountain hikes, we were carried away in his youth. But we must go further in the program we still have a mountain valley.
Agalyk – the valley of mountain giants. According to legend, the good spirits came here to fight with evil, overcome them, and the body of the vanquished become stones. Indeed, on the shores of beautiful clear river scattered huge, smooth boulders winds and if you want you can see the stone monsters. But they are not terrible. In many river dykes and want to swim, that we Masha did – enjoy the water is warm, and small fish, growing bolder, trying to bite his feet. Work up, we returned to our uncle patiently waiting Vitalik and drove back, chatting and sharing experiences on the road. This again was a wonderful day, and we do not tire of talking extoll Rustam, writing to us this excellent program, thanks to Sasha and uncle Vitalik.
September 6. Today we leave the desert. Interesting! Heat goodbye to Travel guide, terribly sorry to leave, how many more stories nedorasskazano, but it’s time for the journey. Traveling with us Rahmat, who quite brilliantly copes with all the difficulties on the road, negotiates with representatives of the local traffic police and manages to show us and growing on both sides of the road cotton. Somehow, in my mind it seemed a large bushes, in fact, low ridges, and the cotton reaches the knee. In this year because of the rainy spring his pereseivali, and therefore he had not yet opened their boxes, and partly still in bloom. Everyone with whom we talked to remember how to work on cotton and what is hard work, and we, in turn, tell about our potatoes.
Two hours later, meet on the road with Uncle Misha, who drove the us in the tract Sarmysh. Place a mysterious, enigmatic and fabulously beautiful. According to some reports here anomalous zone, where often seen UFOs, but came UFO researchers have not found, but was found more than 4000 rock paintings, whose age ranges from 30000 years to 300 years. Time is not a lot, so climb on the black rocks, considered knocked on smooth surfaces, mouflon, camels, and the hunters, returning machine.
After this going to Nurata, look at the mosque, the fortress of Alexander of Macedon, the sacred spring “Chashma” with the sacred fish and a small museum, created by one of the locals at their own expense. Was struck by the source of the sacred fish – clean water so that it seems the fish just floating above the earth, and also the fact that it can not be fed grain, but the bundles of grass, she throws herself so that the water boils. A small museum is also very interesting. There we saw the typical life of local residents belongings – iron, jug-shaped samovar, a cradle for children with a very interesting device that the child was not wet, the camel’s bell, the size of a small bucket, and a very interesting scheme for obtaining water wells in the desert. From the fortress walls were only swollen, but it offers a magnificent overview of lying around the mountain, which mined marble. On the way back, we stroked the fish, which stands quietly in the stream, emanating from the source, and is not afraid, because it is sacred, and no catches.
Have lunch here, in Nurata, in a small family restaurant. As always, delicious, whole lot, dessert is not fit. And after going to the lake Aydarkul. On the way we buy melons and melon visit, where they are grown – almost entirely in the desert. After half an hour drive, finally, shows the lake – a real fairy tale! At first it seems that this is a mirage, but no, between the yellow sand and clear blue sky is blue water. We came out of the car, and do not tire of admiring the beauty and wonder that opens. The lake is huge, like a sea, a small wave incident on a sandy beach, surrounded by gently sloping hills. Painting! It is a pity that I can not draw, but the pictures again without end, every step and a new species. We swim, though, to the depth could not walk very gently sloping bottom. The water is brackish, on the beach beds and salt crystals. Nakupavshis, went to look around and accidentally saw a fox hunt. We’re not bloodthirsty and very sympathetic fox so excited when she outwitted hunters and simply swam away from them … Wandering through the hills found a tortoise-shell, a few flowers to admire the desert Haloxylon and other vegetation, meditate on the beach and in the way to our parking lot – in a yurt camp.
Another adventure of the day – overnight in yurts. It was quite at sunset we reached the camp where we were given a separate tent – all as expected, felt the walls with ornaments, felt the floor and three of our mattress on the floor. Avoid penetration of scorpions, shake up the bed and go looking around. Near the yurt and the rest are camels, and of course, we immediately go to the beast – to get acquainted, to stare, pat. We are invited to ride – of course! The most remarkable thing – a landing on a camel – it is, you sit down, and then he begins to rise, with the first straightens its hind legs, the impression – now spikiruete nose to the sand, but then it spreads its front legs and leveling. My camel was the highest, very fluffy and it was nice to hug his hump, soft and warm. Fifteen minutes, we went around the next neighborhood and even meet a hare, and then there slezanie with our transport system, with almost as funny as planting, in general, too rich experience.
And after dinner, a concert of a local wise man by the fire with dancing and vocals. Exotics, all very much. Finally, looking at the starry sky, and went to sleep. Plans for tomorrow much – very much want to meet the sunrise in the desert.
September 7. And here is the sunrise. Alarm clock rang on time Getting out from under the warm blanket, I totally felt that night in the desert is even invigorating. Shivering from the cold of the morning, got out of a warm tent and a tour of the neighborhood – yeah the sky begins to redden. Masha woke Vanya from the spectacle refused, and we Masha heroically climbed the hill, began to call the sun. Beauty, of course indescribable, the sun lazily crept upward, illuminating the horizon raspberry and red light, the outlines of distant mountains, and then, finally, the edge of the light shows on the horizon, flooding the neighborhood, golden-orange glow. Cheers! At the bottom of our old acquaintance Kirghiz goes for camels, which graze at night and steal away into the distance. The sun rises quickly, becomes warmer, somewhere there is a family of very funny sheep fold, and we are considering a program to be implemented, quickly run into the tent top up.
Waking up and breakfast, a little walk in the neighborhood, Masha paints the camels, and Travel guide already calling us on a long journey, in Bukhara. And we go in the way .. On the way stop at the pass, rest and take pictures open up broad vistas. Then, on the way stop at the picturesque market in a big Gindzhuvan, buy salted roasted in the ashes of apricot pits – very tasty, aromatic spices, sweets, and have non-stop we reach Bukhara. I would like to note that the road was simply magnificent.
In Bukhara, populated in the hotel, and when we see our number, just a little longer crashes with delight – we live in a palace! Our hotel “Sasha and Son” – a renovated house in the old Jewish quarter of Bukhara. The merchants were then living in the 16 century, in a big way, so each room finish off the beautiful frescoes, carved niches, hand-painted ceilings. Not conceal our admiration, and once again thank our patron Travel guide for a wonderful village.
Goodbye to Travel guide , who left us a parting of the beautiful bottle of house wine, for that great thanks to him, we have a rest from the road and go explore a new city.
Running through the main streets, breathing new flavors, have dinner next to our hotel in Labi-Hauz, and some sat in the patio, we go to sleep.
September 8-9. Waking up and had breakfast in a colorful restaurant of our hotel, get to know our new guide – Helmy Ivanovna. She is at home psychic woman, and simply talking about that, about this, we go through the city. She told us about local prejudices – for instance if the child stutters, it must be pryti the square to the sacred stone, to pour his milk and give a lick, then everything will take place, with whooping cough should drink from a vessel, from which he drank a peacock – also “a great national means, with conjunctivitis in the eye to blow the ashes from the hearth – in
general we now know all the methods of treatment! In addition, it was a great lover and defender of all living things, which is also very impressed us. As it turned out, in Bukhara, dislike dogs, so we tried to feed and caress each dog. And when we saw the viper floating in the pool in the palace of the Emir of Bukhara, she wanted to take an active part in her life – to pull drowning man from the water, but we dissuaded her, referring to the fact that, as in Akhtuba saw that snake great swim. But this lyrical digressions, in fact, she had us on the streets of Bukhara, which are just boxes with miracles – a lot of masters, who are next to their stalls woven carpets, embroidery, minted designs on dishes, painted plates and paint pictures, play musical instruments, forging knives and scissors. All this is very interesting, but if you want – you can try yourself, everything is available. Bukhara is also an ancient city, supposedly the name derives from the phrase “temple” – at the dawn of its existence, the city was filled with Buddhists and fire-worshipers, but really only in the Middle Ages, became a Muslim. The city is located at the crossroads of trade routes, has always been a multinational – Were neighborhoods with immigrants from India, bringing precious and semi precious stones and spices, blocks of Bukharan Jews, who traded in various goods, the Chinese came with their silks and other tricks – the life was in full swing. Since then kept trade domes-Taki-Emir Mausoleum (the dome of jewelers), Taki-Tilpak-Furshon (dome Sellers headgear), Taki-Sarrafon (dome me). One of the traditions of building in Bukhara – ensembles of mosques and madrassas around the House – the pool. Previously, these pools were used to supply the city with water. There were water-carriers, who recruited the water from them and ran down the houses, though often with water floated infection, so for some time House became merely a decorative element, which is nice to sit next to the water in the shade of trees.
Very handsome Labi Hauz, surrounded by madrassas built, among other things, public figures in medieval times at his own expense. In the park, next to the swimming pool installed handsome monument Nasreddin – a native of Bukhara, hero tales and parables.
Bukhara remembered as a very friendly and warm city. Passers-friendly, can speak with you on the street, just to invite guests to pilaf, bread or even some delicacy. Helmy I., takes us through the city, all the time greeting people, and thought it was a huge family. We asked about everything and always received satisfactory answers. I very much wanted to see how bread is baked in the tandoor, and when this issue arose, Ilkhom, who drove us to the residence of the Emir of Bukhara, he immediately knew where this can be done. Just an hour later we were guests of Jamal, a baker and watched the production process cakes from start to finish – just a fairy tale sort of! A patty with piping hot, poured some tea with honey and zapitaya – now a delicacy.
The old streets of Bukhara, too beautiful, perhaps, from the very beginning have not changed – the narrow, crooked, with mud walls, reminiscent of Nasreddin Hodja, when the bullock-cart could barely drive down the street and touched the walls of the axles.
Two days in Bukhara passed quickly and very interesting. Hardly had time to buy souvenirs, there are a huge number for any taste. Trade – would only welcome it, and bring down the price, and talk to support – a ritual.
September 10. Today we are leaving from hospitable Bukhara, with regret leave our cozy hotel, more appropriate, under the title “palace”. We sat down in the car and our driver, Suleiman budge. The road lies through the Kyzyl Kum desert – red sands. Suleiman was disappointing – to our question about the desert, he said that no dunes will not, and all our ideas of wilderness are wrong …. We, of course, upset, because to go about seven hours, awaiting the exotic, and Masha is like a desert sand-dial as a souvenir. About an hour away watching the endless fields of cotton, orchards, thickets of every crop was beginning to doze, but here the field began to disappear and we came to this desert. She did not disappoint us. Of course, the dunes with slowly reaching for him caravans we have not seen, but still felt a real wilderness. Infinitely outspread sandy plain covered with small shrubs, thorns, painted in green, yellow, pink color. Scattered thickets of Haloxylon, somewhere in the road sweeps, white as snow sand and road workers cleaned it, just as we do in the snow … just once, stopping to photograph you would like to look and walk on hot sand, stuck in the sand and we had all our family forces to push the car. Entire sand pockmarked feet small lizards, quickly darting between bushes in search of insects. And in one place was bleached by the sun and sand, the bones of some animal. In some places there are yurts of shepherds, driving vast herds of sheep. And camels, too, saw, here they come one and some fearful, others do not like. In the middle of the road seemed to Amu. The magnificent spectacle – a huge blue ribbon among brownish-yellow sand. And another miracle – in the middle of the desert a few taverns in which the cook fish! Svezhepoymannuyu fish transported here from the Amu Darya, rich in fish species such as catfish, pike-perch, white and black carp. In the shade, sitting on the platform among the pillows, we are happy to eat fish, rest, and again in the path. Somehow unnoticed reached the pontoon bridge across the Amu Darya. The bridge is very old and gnarled, periodically breaks down, and there are huge traffic jams, but we’re lucky, everything was in order. We will gladly walked behind our car on the bridge, looking at the muddy waters of the great river. Near it was a greenish-gray, and from a distance looked and turquoise, and blue, and blue. Soon arrived in Khiva. Here Suleiman brought us to the hotel and making sure that we are waiting and all right, bye. And we went to reside and relax.
September 11-12. Khiva. In the morning met with our new guide Timur. He told us that this ancient city on the legend came about when a stray caravan stopped here in a sand storm, people were suffering from thirst, and then, finding the source and tasted the water, cried out: “Hey wah!” Which means beautiful water. Old town – castle Ichon-Qala is very compact, protected by vast mud walls. You can log in through the four gates. Before the main gate is a monument to the great ancient mathematician Al-Khwarizmi, who in the age of fourteen introduced the concept of zero, and also invented the science of algebra. In the Middle Ages Khiva was City scientists. It acted major centers of science – astronomy, mathematics, medicine, lived and created great scientists, Abu Reyhan Beruni, Abu Ali ibn Sina (Avicenna). At the court of Shah Mamun ibn Muhammad worked most prominent scientists of the medieval East, formed the “Academy of Ma’mun. Acclaimed poets of the East XIX were Shermuhammad Muniz and Agakhi. No wonder the city has earned the name “Pearl of the Khorezm oasis.” In general, the natives of these places were great scholars of antiquity, and many scientific discoveries were made by them long before the Europeans, but, unfortunately, the Mongol-Tatar hordes that swept the destructive wave of these places have contributed to neglect of the great discoveries …
We, the farther we Timur immersed in the ancient history of Khorezm kingdom, the more admired and permeated with an atmosphere of narrow streets, which were deep in thought over the great discoveries, the people who lived more than 10 centuries ago. Timur told us of the great architectural treasures – aiwan. This place, built so that polukupola these buildings caught whiff of the north wind and pleased pleasant coolness on hot days, when everything was suffering from bursting heat of the sun. In Uzbekistan, the summer is a period of unbearable heat, which lasts 40 days and is called chilli – July and half of August. In those days the temperature in the shade reaches 45-50 degrees, and only what is happening in the sun – it is difficult to provide. On the other hand, when winter comes – awfully cold, so it is usually in the house stands one room, in which both meet all the extended family to keep warm. In the Khan’s palace there was a special for the yurt, which was collected during the cold weather, it is the ruler and lived in comfort, reclining on cushions, wrapped in soft felt and skins.
We saw the Khan’s palace with a harem, even managed to listen to the song, sung by the numerous wives of the Khan in the performance of local singer. The approximate translation of this – gentleman, drawing attention to us, so we are waiting for your vision and are ready for you at all … They looked very interesting, and women’s jewelry – how many kilograms of silver and precious stones were in a beauty! And one of the ornaments of a miracle – pendant with key of the heart. Nearly every yard has a well – and if you look at it, you’ll see against the blue sky reflected. Court yard small, cozy, and each has its own unique jewelry – somewhere glazed towers, where a chic painted ceilings, where some unique designs on the tiled walls. East fairy tale, and continued to make us, as fascinated at one time the sultan endless Miracle.
We climbed on the minaret and saw the entire old city like the palm, with its walls, domes and palaces, but somewhere in the distance could be seen the Kara-Kum desert, which is already in Turkmenistan. One of the business cards of Khiva is the so-called short minaret – unfinished construction, reminiscent of CHP. This minaret has been conceived as the most immense in the middle of Asia and how to support the sky, but the governor, who invented this magnificent building, died, and none of his subordinates did not finish construction, and therefore has remained unfinished minaret. It is hard to imagine how it would look in a finished state – truly titanic construction.
Timur was a connoisseur and different styles of Uzbek music, he told us about them. Music of Uzbekistan is diverse and is divided into classical – music for connoisseurs, a poppy with a complex vocal, dance, called Lezgi – prototype lezginka, the caravan – the music of the desert is long and monotonous, everyday music like couplets, akyns music, telling stories, the diversity of transfer does not work . Very surprised to see that at the end of 18 – 19 century harem of beauties were created many ensembles akkordeonistok. They themselves studied music on accordions imported from Europe. And the most skilled musicians were blind women, believed that they had better feel the music.
Khiva, just as Bukhara is famous for its handicrafts. We looked into the shop to master musical instruments and he told of what they are made, showing how to play, not even believe that such noises can be removed from the trichord rubab, doira – something like a tambourine with the rings, numerous brass and string instruments bizarre form.
We saw how silk dyed with natural dyes of vegetable and mineral origin, as carpets, checking the pictures on antique engravings. Timur told about the silkworm. As it turned out being very nervous and capricious and requires very hard to comply with the conditions in order to obtain high-quality silk thread.
Ichon-Qala evening embroider exquisite lighting, and really just get in a fairy tale.
Very surprised that the Russians are almost no tourists, but the city is crowded with French, Italians, Germans, in general, foreigners. Local kids shouting “Hello”, have long been forgotten our “hello” or “hello” – that’s a shame.
Along with many historic monuments in the Yichang-Calais live ordinary people with their economy, children, small gardens, as well … lambs that graze near the adobe walls. Just behind the fortress wall of the grocery market, a bustling, fragrant and colorful. Near the existing mosque, we just passed in the end of the prayer – many men in skullcaps come to pray, greet, mingle, smile at each other. It is a warm impression in Moscow, all running, and now the quiet conversations and no one anywhere in a hurry.
Lot of interesting things we learned and saw in Khiva, impressions weight.
September 13 – the last day of vacation. In our program visit the ancient kingdom of Khorezm fortresses, lost in the wilderness. In the morning encounter with Timur and go into the desert. By the way, he tells us that people have always lived near water, which gave the Amu-Darya and as the river changed its course, were built and abandoned fortress whose remains are now scattered across the desert.
The first stop in the fortress Ayaz-Kala, which in translation means the fortress of winds. Timur offers – either to get closer to the ruins of the fortress, or walk through the desert. Of course, go! We really like the desert, and we journeyed on the road looking at the footprints in the sand – this is a tortuous trail left by a snake, lizard ran here and there stamping their little feet gerbils and ground squirrels. A few moments later we see the first ground squirrel that fell in our way – we want to photograph, but it quickly disappears from sight. To our chagrin or gophers, or jerboa, who met us in the future, does not want to pose and hiding from cameras, as actors from the paparazzi. With the rise of the hill, we offer a view of poluzasohshee salty lake – turquoise pool in the frame of white spots of salt, a small yurt camp and desert expanses – want to fly like a bird in a bright blue sky over this colorful yellow breadth.
But Timur continues the story of those distant days when this fortress of the people lived near had huge gardens of grapes, peaches, apples and other essentials for living cultures, the water was enough for all this. And when the river changed its direction, people just left, leaving their homes, which eventually raised his sand, and only in the twentieth century saw the plane shape of fortresses, which are then studied the Soviet archaeologists. That archaeologists and tried to revive this oasis in the desert, drilled wells, pumps supplied, created an artificial reservoir, and was quite put together the grapes, but … with the collapse of the Soviet Union, all hushed up. Pumps broke down, the reservoir is dry, leaving only a fantastic view from the hill to the water. Oplyvshim climb on the ruins of the fortress, we decide to come to the same lake. The problem turned out to be a bit more complicated than it seemed at first – distances in the desert is deceptive. Half an hour stamp on the sand, the sun beats down, I want to drink even stop paying attention to the ranges over the gerbils and ground squirrels, and now, finally, the lake. Stroking immobile, reflected the surrounding hills, very quiet and warm. The banks are covered with viscous and coating of salt, do not want to swim. Admiring him, back to the car and visit a couple of similar places. Says Timur, these castles are about fifty, maybe more. The impression is very interesting – touched the dust of centuries, felt the frailty of all things, to philosophize about it and came back. Regret parted with Timur. To say goodbye to the people here are always very sorry, somehow, they quickly become family.
In the evening a farewell dinner in the hotel restaurant, packed their bags and went to bed early, not knowing what will the future hold for us.
September 14. Day parting with Uzbekistan. Takeoff of our aircraft is scheduled for 16.40, so the taxi ordered for an hour of the day, so without much fuss to get to the airport in Urgench. Calmly breakfast, the last time we pass through the narrow streets Ichon-Kala, purchase souvenirs, to the hour we are ready. The driver brings us to the airport, and then begin our adventure … Immediately notice the incomprehensible silence and the emptiness at the airport, and by contacting the information desk know that our flight is canceled, only through next week – dumb! As clarification, we connect with a representative Siberia Umid, who listened to us, there is half an hour and trying to solve our problem. We have nowhere to go, vacation is over, we’re at work and at home, the money ran out, too. A plane ek! By evening we were sent to sit in a hotel for the pilots, promising to send through Tashkent to Moscow. I must say that the representatives of airline “Siberia” in Uzbekistan is very well taken care of us. Indeed, about nine o’clock Umid comes to us already with tickets on a plane to Tashkent, feeds in the cafeteria and accompanies almost to the plane. Airplane our wonderful AN-24, a screw with large portholes, in which, unfortunately, we saw very little, because it flew in the dark. Two hours of summer – and we are in Tashkent. Here we met, apologize, that last night did not get to fly home, but settled in the best hotel “Uzbekistan” and promised to send back home tomorrow. But as they say, no evil without good. We have the opportunity to look like half a day to Tashkent to clarify all issues.
September 15. Sleep and breakfast, go for a walk. Tashkent city and the ancient and the young at a time. Ancient, because settled here long ago, a young, because after the devastating earthquake in 1966, was rebuilt. The city is beautiful – free, wide range of gardens, parks and fountains, very clean. In the parks, birds sing and Galda ubiquitous lanes – southern starlings. It so happened that when we included the fountains and we felt a little wizards – just a calm expanse of water, and suddenly everything comes to life, gurgling and the water rises.
Surprised river, which flows through the city – a very bright blue color. A more striking abundance of educational institutions – universities, institutes, colleges.
We reached the market Chorsu, plunged in the motley crowd, and then decided to return to the hotel by metro. Metro vividly recalled to Moscow – wagons are the same hustle almost the same, only the stations are decorated in national style.
After lunch, we found that the question our decision and the plane to Moscow at 19.00. Aleksandr Yurevich, greeted us and gave us tickets, and we still flew to Moscow, however, delayed for a day, but we were given to Tashkent.
That ended our wonderful trip, full of positive emotions, impressions and discoveries.
I would like to express my deep gratitude to all the people with whom we communicated that we met, talked and showed the wonders of a beautiful country – Uzbekistan. Thank Uzbekistan Travel Agency - Roxana Tour, especially Humo, who gave us the magical country and is the soul of this interesting excursion program.
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